A light snow falls, slowly coating the deep-red rooftops of Prague. I look up into a chill gunmetal sky as the gray stones beneath me are already disappearing under a blanket of white. There's a frigid hush over the square. Shops are closed, chairs perched upside down on cafe tables. In the distance I hear church bells. A strong wind sighs and moans, picks up some stray papers and dances them past me.